Friday, June 13, 2014

Day 12 – 13 June 2014


Today was a great but tiring day but we made it to the Arctic Circle (AC). We left the hotel at 7 am enroute to the AC and back. We had both stripped our bikes of unnecessary weight and I was only carrying safety and first aid gear plus warm clothes. It is a 400 mile round trip from Fairbanks. 80 miles each way is paved from Fairbanks to the Dalton Highway. It is still a very poor two lane highway and we ran into several road repair delays. Once at the start of the Dalton we had 120 miles each way (240 total) of mostly dirt/gravel and occasionally very poor pavement. This is a tough road to ride even in good conditions which we had. The weather was perfect, sunny and cool, until the last 17 miles from the end of the Dalton. It started to sprinkle making the road slightly wet but not enough to generate the mud we had been avoiding all day. The 80 miles on pavement back to Fairbanks was a bit wetter and we eventually had to stop to store our non-water proof gear; i.e. cameras, my CB radio. We finally got to the hotel at 6 pm after 11 hours in the saddle. We were actually riding most of the 11 hours except for a few times we stopped to take pictures and fill up at the Yukon River gas pump (both directions). Once we got on the Dalton we rode from 35 to 45 mph; anything more and wash boards and pot holes were too severe when you hit them. You could also not avoid the occasional wet deep gravel, huge ruts in the pavement, and trucks coming around the bend at 80 mph. We passed and were passed by numerous semi-trucks. I had nightmares prior to this trip of passing a semi-truck on a narrow Dalton turn. I did it several times and it was OK. I lowered my face shield to protect from rocks but ALL the truck drivers were courteous and either slowed down or waited to pass when the road was wider. It helped that we were on Channel 19 on the CB so we could talk to them and work out when and where to pass. I can’t say enough about how much I appreciate the truck driver’s attitude towards the motorcycles.

We only had one real incident worth mentioning. On our way up we were stopped at the Yukon River  gas pump (half way up the Dalton) getting our first fill-up when two other motorcycles rode up also heading north to the Arctic Circle. One was riding a Crotch Rocker (sport bike) and the other was on an older Harley Davidson (Super Glide but with larger tank). They were both very friendly and interested in my Yamaha Super Tenere (S10). They lived in Alaska and said this was their first ride to the Arctic Circle. I would not have selected either of their bikes for this trip but that’s why I got the S10. We all fueled up and Jim and I continued to the AC. We were riding our usual 35-45 mph when these two guys passed us doing at least 60-65 mph. The speed limit on the Dalton is 50 mph. They waved as they went by. We eventually got to the AC and they were there taking the obligatory pictures standing in front of the AC sign with their bikes. They moved out of the way and Jim and I got our bike pics at the AC. Mosquitoes were terrible so we didn’t linger. I did get a picture drinking from a flask given to me by my son for my 65th birthday; thanks Jeff.

Jim and I took off and shortly afterwards the two other riders came by again moving faster than us. A while later we came around a bend in the road and the Harley was in the ditch and the other rider was trying to help get the bike back on the road. The road was on a 10 ft berm and the Harley rider had a little too much speed and drifted off the road. He made a quick move to lay the bike down rather than let it flip into the ditch. He was unhurt but shaken. When Jim and I saw what was going on we both quickly stopped and ran down into the ditch to help. It took all four of us pushing the bike at an angle to finally get it back on the road and on the kick stand. Both riders were very appreciative that we stopped to help but we would never leave a biker in the ditch. They eventually passed us again but not as fast as the previous times.

Jim and I ordered a pizza and I went to the store for a six pack. We are both ready to call it a night and plan on heading home tomorrow. Our first stop will be Tok, AK. It is only 200 miles but the ride through the Yukon, Canada area requires considering distances to cover and road conditions. We have been told by an RV who just came up the Alcan Highway that starting at the Alaska/Canada border there is 150 miles of wash boards, pot holes and gravel. After riding the Dalton, how much worse can it be? We will find out soon.

As a side note. The Dalton highway is a challenge. Lots of miles of dirt and gravel that when wet becomes like glue. We were lucky that it was dry with a few areas under repair where we would find wet gravel. We also stopped at the Arctic Circle. The real bad section is further north on the way to Purdue Bay (Deadhorse). Anyone doing the whole section has my respect. I know I was ready to turn around at the AC and dreaded the ride back. My Super Tenere (S10) was a perfect bike for this road. It handled all the rough stuff with no problem and had plenty of power. I could actually have ridden much faster but held back because Jim was on a full dresser Harley Davidson. I love HDs but they are not for this road. Jim proved they can make it to the AC but Jim worked a lot harder than I did getting there. My S10 had plenty of suspension to absorb the rough roads but the HD had to slow down or get beat to pieces. When the gravel was deep and wet I would just get on the pegs and power up and ride through it. Jim had to do the best he could to keep the bike upright. My semi-knobby tires gave me grip when needed, Jim had street tires. We could have cut at least one maybe two hours off the trip if we were both on adventure bikes.

I love my S10.
 

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