Today was a great but tiring day but we made it to the
Arctic Circle (AC). We left the hotel at 7 am enroute to the AC and back. We
had both stripped our bikes of unnecessary weight and I was only carrying
safety and first aid gear plus warm clothes. It is a 400 mile round trip from
Fairbanks. 80 miles each way is paved from Fairbanks to the Dalton Highway. It
is still a very poor two lane highway and we ran into several road repair delays.
Once at the start of the Dalton we had 120 miles each way (240 total) of mostly
dirt/gravel and occasionally very poor pavement. This is a tough road to ride
even in good conditions which we had. The weather was perfect, sunny and cool, until
the last 17 miles from the end of the Dalton. It started to sprinkle making the
road slightly wet but not enough to generate the mud we had been avoiding all
day. The 80 miles on pavement back to Fairbanks was a bit wetter and we
eventually had to stop to store our non-water proof gear; i.e. cameras, my CB
radio. We finally got to the hotel at 6 pm after 11 hours in the saddle. We
were actually riding most of the 11 hours except for a few times we stopped to
take pictures and fill up at the Yukon River gas pump (both directions). Once
we got on the Dalton we rode from 35 to 45 mph; anything more and wash boards and
pot holes were too severe when you hit them. You could also not avoid the
occasional wet deep gravel, huge ruts in the pavement, and trucks coming around
the bend at 80 mph. We passed and were passed by numerous semi-trucks. I had
nightmares prior to this trip of passing a semi-truck on a narrow Dalton turn.
I did it several times and it was OK. I lowered my face shield to protect from
rocks but ALL the truck drivers were courteous and either slowed down or waited
to pass when the road was wider. It helped that we were on Channel 19 on the CB
so we could talk to them and work out when and where to pass. I can’t say
enough about how much I appreciate the truck driver’s attitude towards the
motorcycles.
We only had one real incident worth mentioning. On our way
up we were stopped at the Yukon River gas pump (half way up the Dalton) getting our
first fill-up when two other motorcycles rode up also heading north to the
Arctic Circle. One was riding a Crotch Rocker (sport bike) and the other was on
an older Harley Davidson (Super Glide but with larger tank). They were both
very friendly and interested in my Yamaha Super Tenere (S10). They lived in Alaska
and said this was their first ride to the Arctic Circle. I would not have
selected either of their bikes for this trip but that’s why I got the S10. We
all fueled up and Jim and I continued to the AC. We were riding our usual 35-45
mph when these two guys passed us doing at least 60-65 mph. The speed limit on
the Dalton is 50 mph. They waved as they went by. We eventually got to the AC
and they were there taking the obligatory pictures standing in front of the AC
sign with their bikes. They moved out of the way and Jim and I got our bike
pics at the AC. Mosquitoes were terrible so we didn’t linger. I did get a
picture drinking from a flask given to me by my son for my 65th
birthday; thanks Jeff.
Jim and I took off and shortly afterwards the two other
riders came by again moving faster than us. A while later we came around a bend
in the road and the Harley was in the ditch and the other rider was trying to
help get the bike back on the road. The road was on a 10 ft berm and the Harley
rider had a little too much speed and drifted off the road. He made a quick
move to lay the bike down rather than let it flip into the ditch. He was unhurt
but shaken. When Jim and I saw what was going on we both quickly stopped and
ran down into the ditch to help. It took all four of us pushing the bike at an
angle to finally get it back on the road and on the kick stand. Both riders
were very appreciative that we stopped to help but we would never leave a biker
in the ditch. They eventually passed us again but not as fast as the previous
times.
Jim and I ordered a pizza and I went to the store for a six
pack. We are both ready to call it a night and plan on heading home tomorrow.
Our first stop will be Tok, AK. It is only 200 miles but the ride through the
Yukon, Canada area requires considering distances to cover and road conditions.
We have been told by an RV who just came up the Alcan Highway that starting at
the Alaska/Canada border there is 150 miles of wash boards, pot holes and
gravel. After riding the Dalton, how much worse can it be? We will find out
soon.
As a side note. The Dalton highway is a challenge. Lots of
miles of dirt and gravel that when wet becomes like glue. We were lucky that it
was dry with a few areas under repair where we would find wet gravel. We also
stopped at the Arctic Circle. The real bad section is further north on the way
to Purdue Bay (Deadhorse). Anyone doing the whole section has my respect. I
know I was ready to turn around at the AC and dreaded the ride back. My Super
Tenere (S10) was a perfect bike for this road. It handled all the rough stuff
with no problem and had plenty of power. I could actually have ridden much
faster but held back because Jim was on a full dresser Harley Davidson. I love
HDs but they are not for this road. Jim proved they can make it to the AC but
Jim worked a lot harder than I did getting there. My S10 had plenty of
suspension to absorb the rough roads but the HD had to slow down or get beat to
pieces. When the gravel was deep and wet I would just get on the pegs and power
up and ride through it. Jim had to do the best he could to keep the bike
upright. My semi-knobby tires gave me grip when needed, Jim had street tires.
We could have cut at least one maybe two hours off the trip if we were both on
adventure bikes.
I love my S10.
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